Method of making stitch-down shoes.



4w. A. vosPER. METHOD 0F MAKING STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED IUNE 27. 19H.

A 1,146,825. Patented 'July 2o, 1915.

Imm @95% UNTTED STATES `PATENT oFFIoE.

WILLIAM A. vosrnn, or ARLINGTON, NEWNJEnsnY.

METHOD 0F MAKING STITCH-DOWN SHOES.

To all whom it may concern Be it lmown that I, WILLIAM A. VosPER, a citizen of the United States, residing at Arlington, county of Hudson, and Statev of New Jersey. have invented a certain new and useful Method of Making Stitch-Down Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

The invention is a method of making stitch down shoes.

The objects iny view are to conceal the clenched or upset ends of the staples by which the upper is fastened to the sole; to simplify and expedite the operation of making the shoe, incidentally attaining economvcf manufacture, and to build up the heel portion of the shoe while utilizing a single sole in the manufacture of the article.

The salient feature of the invention is a sole the edge portion of which is split around the -toe andat the sides, thus producing a one-piece sole with a divided edge portion. The upper is lasted for its edge to turn outwardlv'vand over-lap the split part of the sole, and. at this time the upper and sole are united by permanent fastenings, preferably in the form of wire staples the ends of which pass through the out-turned edge of said upper and one part of the divided sole. The.

points or ends of the staples are upset or clenchedv against that part of the divided sole through which the staples are passed, and the other part of the sole is leveled down 'or flattened in any suitable Way so that the channeled part of the sole is closed, as a result of which the elenched'parts of the.

staples are' incased within the divided part of the sole` and thus concealedv froml view thereby.

It is to be understood from what has been said that the process involves the following procedure: channeling the sole around the toe and side portions thereof; imposing said sole upon a last; lasting an upper; un1t1ng the upper and the channeledpart of the sole by permanent fastenings such as staples the ends of which are clenched within the channeled part of the sole, and closing said channeled part of the sole and upon the clenched ends of the staples by leveling the sole.

Another part of the invention is a built up heelportion the characteristic feature of which is a div-ided heel part of the sole. within which is positioned one or more heel lifts, the interposition of which depresses the heel part of the sole below the level of the instep and foot part' of said sole, the whole being Specification of Letters Patent.

ltegral with the sole.

fastened firmly together nby appropriate means.

Other features and advantages'of the-inv Patented July 2o, 1915. Application filed June 27, 1914. Serial No. 847,607.

vention will appear from the `following de-` tailed description.

In the drawings, Flgure 1 is a`perspective shoe, the under split part of the sole being turned to\ an abnormal position to illustrate the clenching of the staples against the' upper split part of the sole. Fig. 2 is aside elevation illustrating the complete shoe. Fig. .3 is a vertical longitudinal section through the shoe of Fig. 2, and Fig. 4 is a vertical transverse section through the foot part of the shoe.

A designates the sole, B the upper, and C the heel of a shoe embodying this invention.

An important feature of the invention is the construction of sole A. At the toe andv side portions of the sole it is split or divided, the line of division or split being indicated at a. As a result of this division of the sole it is provided with an upper lip b and a lower lip c. The heel part of the sole is divided longitudinally and centrally thereof, the line gf division being indicated at d. This division line el extends entirely across the sole from side-to side thereof and from the rear edge of the lieel portion to the shank of the sole, all as clearly shown in Fig. 3. By thus dividing the heel portion of the sole at d there results two members e f integral with the sole, the purpose of which will presently appear.

As is usual in shoes of this character, the edge portion of upper B is turned outwardly, thereby producing a yflange g. This lange extends around theentire edge portion of the upper, and it is in contact with the lip b and the member e of the sole. The Bange `of the upper and the sole A are united by permanent fastenings D, the same being shown herein as staples. These staples pass throughthe flange f/ of the upper and the lip 71 and member e of sole A. The staples are upset or clenched against' the under face of lip Z1 and member e of said sole, thereby 'view lillustrating the operation of lasting the permanently attaching the upper to the sole.

Subsequent to thc operation of staplin'g the upper and the sole together vthe lower lip c of the sole is closed relative to the upper lip 7) thereof. and the heel is builtup, as will presently appeal', so that the clenched ends of the staple fasteners will all be concealed from view by certain parts which are infA A 444444,4 1-

y, LUC

In the of a; aoeordfthe' asi-heretofore deseribed, and 1i-v POSed' arefastened tothe shoeby attaching'l'ne'ans the" art. E5 :whereby the heel at-` tached'rigi y-jt'o'the -sleand the ul'ip'enfI A In themanufacture of .theshoe'I proceed.

" split," or .dividedalog the toe and side porthe'n'ails l1. areldrire'n through the-'sole memtion's, andthe 'rear or heel part of the sole is 'split entirely through the saine asheretoi -f'ore mexit'nined.` Said-sole-is now imposed ''uponfthe last'fwhich it-is fastened in the usual way bythe lasting tacks: The upper L is drawn over the and the edge portion of said upperV is turned outwardly to form v4the lip g which i `the A operation of lasting theupper is imposed firmly upon and in around the toe;4 heel and side p ortions. The upper isnowf fastened permanently to the l sleby thestaplesf'D'passing through the "lange'of the-upper .jLber e ofthe sole;

-positioni During the operation nev ppo'site4 to 'the ends of' the staples that they will be clenched against the tool.

:mi Snbsequent to lasting 'and stapling the up' 4per and .the sole, the division a of said sole is closedlbyA pressing the lip c toward thelip b. and in=. practice this closing of the divided 5 partof'thesok is obtained by leveling the'v y `of the sole, and, flinal1y,fasten`ers h" are sole, the pressure of the leveling mechanlsm l beingrexertedto press the lip c against the lip band `the clenched ends of the staples.

It is thus 'apparent that the upset or clenched ends ofthe staples 'are covered bythe lip c A when the sole isletjeled.

'I he heelportion of the shoe is built up by rnterpsinv one or. more lifts between the members lformed by the divided rear parte ,p l between-the lam'a'xibelrsev foflthe f-videdirear'partofthe'sole. l 'I tjwillbe underthat-'thee'ofthe sole issta pled' tothe upper,` b ut fthe member f-of u ys'ole',:togetl1er the heel separate from 'the staples 'attaching being" shown-as nails, It.

*"'fei-redm employ' within the slur-, v at the heelx- I 4'and through-'saidu'pper iiap "mdf-clan their. points against the'lower'sar'faae o rupperflp, and'leveling the sole'tolcloslethe) .nim a last, bending the-31m@ ".3, The process'of :giling t e upper', a suitable tool is posi* .j Ao

and-the Shoe is msnen-mm' mal'ller'llsllal inthe is-r-f-fvhei-pross' 1 fa-mami ascites-dawn u er f magma face-fof #said upper liapgelstaplelllf through the-ontturned porti njof. 'saidi'n 35" 2.v -In the art of making'stitch 'the process which consists in 'the l' ness,y imposmg said sole upon a. i

yan upper and turning out the marginal perf tion of said up er into contact with the up? perl m ginal ap ofthe sole, bending the 96 lower ap away fromv thel upper' `liep-and g stapling the lower marginal of 'the upper against theupper flap 'of sole,

'the points lof said staplesl,.being clenched n against the upper llap, andulevelingthe sole 100 to clo the lower ilap aga-inst the upper flap and the clenched ends of the staples` oroonf cealing the same.

making 'fstithdown n shoes which consists in splitting the lampi- 11.05..,`

nal portion of a sole by acutextendng* or a definite distance inwardly from the edgethereof and in dividingthe of.'

said sole by a cut extendingfolfa 4distance forwardly from theirear a.nd.j110` f extending also from side t^sideof;i;he"g1,x a

imposing the sole upona.

per, stapling the upper directlyrto @ne lf.

of the split marginof the sole the lstaples against said splitA 1` por-[115g tion, building up' the heel by within the dividedheel .portonfof 'thefsol andfclosingv thesplit marginal portion an the dlvidedfheel portion o said-sole.'

Intestimony whereof -I have signed: my 120 name to thisspecication in the presenceA of two subscribing witnesses; f,

" I WrlLLIAM Aa-QVVOSPER.

Witnesses:

l H. L Brumm, 1L Glimmen. l 

